Showing posts with label American. Show all posts
Showing posts with label American. Show all posts

Monday, September 19, 2011

American Cuisine Reflects Our History

Originally published August 9 & 13, 1984

Among primitive peoples it would seem that cooking has been the woman’s job; but as soon as people became civilized and began to think of what they ate as a gift from the gods for which they should be grateful, a religious element entered into the preparation of food which then seems to have become the duty of men. Men have always sought to make the exercise of religion an all-male affair, and in the olden days especially, women were kept on the periphery of all such activities, except for fertility rites and minor roles as soothsayers and voices for oracles. And so it seems to have been with cooking, certainly where the preparation of the “burned offerings” were concerned - those token sacrifices which purported to give the gods their “share” of the food, but which were mere whiffs of glorious smells, while their priests and the people ate the food.

In the days of Homer, even kings were not above cooking their own meals, and, judging by the pictures of cooking scenes and the models found in the tombs, Egyptian cooks were all men, as were Greek and Roman cooks.

Early American housewives, like their European contemporaries, were feeding families while their husbands were occupied with hunting for game or coaxing crops from the virgin soil.

After the War of Independence, the city lady of the eastern seaboard had her servants, her table silver, her coffee, white bread, imported cheese, salads and white loaf sugar. She would have been quite at home in one of the capitals of Europe.

On a prosperous eastern farm, the housewife lived almost as comfortably as her sister in the city, though her daily tasks were more demanding. The household had to be supervised, as had food and accommodations for the farmhands. There were dairying, pickling and preserving to be seen to. The smokehouse had to be hung with meat and game for the winter; the root cellar to be filled with bins of potatoes, dried corn, beans and squash, as well as barrels full of apples.

The poorer farm wife further inland lived close to American beginnings. She seasoned her stews as often with maple syrup as with salt, sweetened her pies with molasses, cooked cornmeal mush more often than bread, broiled fresh meat or fish only when her man had a good day’s hunting. If the soil was poor, the family pulled up stakes and moved on in search of better. Good housewives learned to make butter on the march “by dashing of the wagon, and so nicely to calculate the working of barm (leavening) in the jolting heats that, as soon after the halt as an oven can be dug in the hillside and heated, their well-kneaded loaf was ready for baking.” But most women stocked up on dried corn, johnny cakes, pocket soup and preserved meats for their journeys into the unknown.

As new settlers arrived in America from various countries, they introduced their own traditional dishes, judiciously adapted when necessary to suit the ingredients available. The English brought apple pie. The French introduced chowder (the fish kettle). The Dutch brought cookies (koekjes), cole slaw (cabbage salad) and waffles. In the end, the American cuisine became a mirror of history, the names of its dishes reflecting a medley of peoples, religions, wars, geographical locations, even occupations. There were Shaker Loaf, burgoo, Maryland chicken, snickerdoodles, spoon bread, cowpoke beans, hush puppies, jambalaya, pandowdy, Boston baked beans, Philadelphia pepper pot, Moravian sugar cake, Swedish meatballs, whaler’s toddy…

Burgoo - Traditional Southern Stew Recipe

Burgoo is the celebrated stew which helped to make Kentucky famous. It is served on Derby Day, at political rallies, tobacco auctions and other outdoor events. It is a great dish to have whenever you expect 20 to 25 people. All through the South any available game would be added to this recipe. A squirrel, a rabbit and it was a good omen to have a minister (whose salary must have been paid) wave a rabbit’s foot over the steaming cauldron. This burgoo is very similar to Brunswick stew, another southern favorite.

Ingredients:
1 to 2 lbs. each of pork (shank or shoulder), beef and lamb
4 lbs. stewing chicken
6 quarts water
3 T. salt
1 bay leaf
1 lb. potatoes (3 to 4 medium)
1 lb. onions (3 to 4 medium)
3 or 4 carrots
1 cup sliced celery
1 large green pepper, cut in slivers
1 (16 oz.) can tomato puree
1 (28 oz.) can tomatoes
2 small dried hot chili peppers
1 (16 oz.) can whole kernel corn
2 cups sliced fresh okra or a 10 oz. pkg. frozen okra
2 cups fresh, frozen or canned lima beans
1-1/2 cups chopped cabbage
1 T. Worcestershire sauce
1 T. A-1 sauce
1/4 t. cayenne pepper
Additional salt to taste
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

Step 1. Combine meat, chicken and water in a very large stock pot or soup kettle. Season with salt and bay leaf. Season until the meat is tender and falls from the bones. Remove and discard skin and bones, cutting meat into bite-sized pieces. Skim off the fat, chill the stock and remove all hardened fat.

Step 2. Return meat and chicken to the stock. Peel potatoes and onions, scrape the carrots and dice the vegetables. Add to the stew along with the celery, green pepper, tomato puree, tomatoes, hot peppers, corn, okra, lima beans and cabbage. Simmer slowly until stew is thick and vegetables are done, 2 to 3 hours. Burgoo should be thick but still soupy.

Step 3. Season with Worcestershire and A-1 sauces, cayenne and additional salt if needed. Just before serving, sprinkle stew with parsley. Serve in soup bowls.

Moravian Sugar Cake Recipe

Winston-Salem N.C. was founded in 1766 by the Moravians, a pious Germanic people who funneled down the Appalachian valleys from Bethlehem, PA into the rolling Piedmont of North Carolina. The first Moravians arrived in November of 1753 and took refuge in an abandoned log cabin on 98,985 acre site sold to the brethren by Lord Granville of England. Immediately they set about building their town, which they called Bethabara, meaning “house of passage”, for they intended this site to be a temporary one. Within three years, Bethabara had become a bustling community, looked upon by the Indians as a place “where there are good people and much bread.”

Moravian sugar cake is a light, spongy, yeast-raised coffee cake with puddles of melted butter, brown sugar, and cinnamon on top. This recipe makes two 13x9x2 loaves.

Ingredients:
2 medium-sized potatoes, peeled and cubed
1-1/2 cups water
6 T. butter
6 T. lard (hog lard, not shortening)
1 scant cup sugar
2 eggs
2 t. salt
2 pkgs. active dry yeast softened in 1/4 cup warm water
5-1/2 cups sifted flour
1/4 cup butter, more or less
1/4 cup light brown sugar, not packed
Ground cinnamon
1/4 cup heavy cream, more or less

Step 1. Boil the potatoes in the water in a covered saucepan about 15 minutes until very tender. Drain off cooking water and reserve. Mash potatoes until light and fluffy but add no seasoning. Measure out 1 cup and set aside; when measuring the mashed potatoes, just spoon them lightly into the measuring cup - do not pack down.

Step 2. Cream the butter, lard and sugar until very light, then beat in eggs, one at a time. Beat in the mashed potatoes and, when creamy, mix in 1 cup of the reserved potato cooking water and the salt. Test the temperature of the mixture - it should be warm but not too hot. If too hot, allow to cool a bit, then mix in the softened yeast.

Step 3. Stir in the flour, about 1 cup at a time, beating well after each addition. When all the flour has been mixed in and you have a nice soft dough, cover with a dry cloth, set in a warm spot 2 hours or until doubled in bulk.

Step 4. Punch dough down in the bowl and beat a minute or so to reduce the volume. Divide dough in half and pat out in two well-buttered 13x9x2-inch loaf pans. The dough will be springy and you will have to persist, with well-buttered hands, to flatten the dough over the bottoms of the pans. Cover each with a dry cloth, set in a warm spot away from drafts, and let rise again until doubled in bulk, about 2 hours.

Step 5. When the dough is puffy and light and has risen to within about a half inch of the tops of the pans, punch holes down in the dough with your thumb, index and third fingers bunched up. Its best to do this in an orderly pattern, making five evenly spaced rows, three holes each, across the 9-inch side of the dough. Cut the butter into little chips about the size of kidney beans and drop one into each hole. Scatter brown sugar lightly across the top of each loaf, then sprinkle with cinnamon. Finally, drizzle cream over the top of each loaf. Bake loaves in a preheated 400 degree oven about 20 to 25 minutes until richly browned. Remove to wire racks and let cool about 5 minutes. To serve, cut into large squares and put out lots of sweet butter for spreading.

Dodge City Bean Soup Recipe

It was once the wildest, wickedest city in the west. And who, thanks to television’s “Gunsmoke”, has not heard of Dodge City, Kansas, of Wyatt Earp, Bat Masterson, Belle Starr, Doc Holliday? Dodge City today is no longer the wildest, wickedest stop on the western cattle trail. Dried beans have always been used to stretch meat. now comes this old Dodge City recipe in which the beans themselves are stretched with stale bread crumbs. This, surely, is the ultimate lesson in economy, for each hearty bowl of soup costs about ten cents (in 1984). It is an utterly unpretentious soup - no herbs or spices to season, but its richness of flavor will surprise you. Serve eight.

Ingredients:
1 small soup bone, about 1-1/2 lbs. - pork, beef, ham or lamb
2 quarts cold water
1 cup dried navy beans
2 cups boiling water
3 medium-sized potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
2 medium-sized white turnips, peeled and thinly sliced
1 large parsnip, peeled and sliced
2-1/2 t. salt
1/4 t. black pepper
1-1/2 cups fine dry bread crumbs
1 medium-sized yellow onion, peeled and sliced very thin

Step 1. Boil the soup bone in the 2 quarts of water in a large, heavy soup kettle about 2 hours, until the meat falls from the bone. Clean meat from bone; return meat to soup and discard bone.

Step 2. While the soup bone boils, soak the dried beans in the 2 cups boiling water, in a small covered saucepan. Add beans and their soak water to the soup kettle, cover and simmer one hour. Add potatoes, turnips, parsnips, 2 teaspoons of the salt, and the pepper. Cover and simmer about 1-1/2 hours, uncover and simmer a 1/2 hour longer. Taste for salt and add more salt if needed. Stir in the bread crumbs and top each portion, if you like, with a slice or two of onion. Serve hot.

Corn Chowder Recipe

Corn chowder is so much an American favorite today we tend to forget that it  originally was a Native-American recipe. What happened with corn chowder, as with such other native recipes as succotash, Brunswick stew, burgoo and “Boston” baked beans, is that early colonists, and later pioneer families moving west with the wagon trains, took the native foods and added their own touches. Indian corn chowder, for example, was simply parched corn stewed in water with perhaps a dab of boar grease and, when available, a handful of wild onions. Frontier women of the plains who had milk cows and hogs began preparing the chowder with top milk and salt pork. And thus emerged the corn chowder we relish today. Serves six.

Ingredients:
8 medium-sized ears sweet corn, husked
1/4 lb. salt pork, cut in fine dice
2 medium-sized onions, peeled and chopped
2 small potatoes, peeled and cubed
1 T. sugar
1/2 t. paprika
1 t. salt
1/4 t. pepper
1/2 cup water
2 cups milk
2 cups light cream

V.S.P. Cut the kernels of corn from the cobs cream-style (to do so, make a deep cut down the center of each row of kernels with a sharp knife, then, using a knife, scrape the corn pulp and milk into a large bowl). Fry the salt pork in a large, heavy skillet until most of the drippings have cooked out and only the brown crispy bits remain: lift the salt pork from the skillet with a slotted spoon to paper toweling to drain. Pour all but 3 tablespoons of the drippings from the skillet: add the onions and potatoes and sauté slowly until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add sugar, paprika, salt, pepper and water. Cover and simmer 10 minutes. Add corn, milk, cream and browned salt pork, adjust heat so mixture bubbles gently, cover and simmer 20 minutes. Do not allow to boil. Ladle into soup plates and serve with crackers.

Hootsla - Omelet Recipe

This rich and filling main dish frugally uses up stale bread but does not stint on butter. It was popular among the Germans and Scandinavians who made their way to Nebraska during the mid and late nineteenth century to coax a living from the land. Not unlike the Pennsylvania-Dutch egg bread, it is nothing more than butter-browned bread cubes in a softly set omelet. Serves six.

Ingredients:
2/3 cup butter
10 slices stale white bread, with crusts, cut in 1/2-inch cubes
4 large eggs
3/4 cup milk
1/2 t. salt
1/8 t. pepper

V.S.P. Melt the butter in a large heavy skillet over moderate heat, but do not let it brown. Add the bread cubes, turn heat up slightly, and fry, tossing gently with a spoon, about 5 to 8 minutes until delicately browned. Quickly beat the eggs with the milk, salt and pepper until frothy. Pour into skillet, tilting so that the eggs run underneath the bread cubes and to the edges of the skillet. Reduce heat to moderate and cook eggs, without stirring, 5 to 8 minutes until browned on the bottom and softly set on top. Spoon onto heated plates and serve at once.

The Amana Colonies

Originally published August 13, 1984

The people of the Amanas, rebels from the ritual worship and intellectual theology of the Lutheran Church in eighteenth century Germany, settled first around Buffalo, NY. But they soon needed more room, and so in 1854 they looked westward. Here, along the Iowa River, they found the rich soil, the timber, the sandstone, limestone and brick clay necessary for building a new community. The first village, Amana, was laid out in 1855. Subsequently, six more were built in the medieval manner, with houses clustered together and enveloped by farmland.

These were a farming people, growing the wheat that they baked into breads, in hickory-stacked ovens, raising hogs that would be turned into sausages and fine smoky hams, growing fruits and vegetables and herbs.

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Old-Fashioned Lemon Creams Recipe

In the parts of the country where milk and cream were plentiful in the nineteenth century, the desserts took on a lavishness which is far removed from today’s dependence on cream substitutes and desserts in low calories. Modern housewives prepare a lemon cream that has little resemblance to this delicious recipe.

Ingredients:
1 envelope unflavored gelatin
1/4 cup cold water
4 egg yolks
3/4 cup sugar
1/8 t. salt
Grated rind of 1 lemon
Juice of 2 lemons
4 egg whites, stiffly beaten
1/2 pint cream, whipped

V.S.P. Sprinkle gelatin over cold water to soften. Place over hot water and stir until dissolved. Cool slightly. Beat egg yolks until thick, add sugar and beat until the mixture falls from the spoon in a ribbon. Simmer over hot, not boiling, water until the mixture clings to the spoon, stirring constantly. Add the gelatin, lemon rind and juice. Cool, stirring occasionally, but do not allow to thicken too much. Fold in the egg whites and the whipped cream. Pile high in a dessert dish. Refrigerate until serving time.

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Indian Pudding Recipe

If there is one true Native American flavor, it is that of cornmeal and molasses, which the earliest settlers developed from the natural foodstuffs long used by the Indians, and which is characterized in such other American classics as corn cakes and anadama bread. This recipe is for a rather firm pudding with a decided butterscotch flavor. Serve six to eight.

Ingredients:
4 cups milk
1/2 cup yellow cornmeal
3 T. butter, softened
1/2 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
1/4 cup dark molasses
1 t. cinnamon
1 t. salt
1/4 t. ground nutmeg
1 t. vanilla extract
3 eggs
Heavy cream, whipped cream or vanilla ice cream

Step 1. In the top of a double boiler, scald milk. Add cornmeal gradually, stirring constantly. Place over, not in, boiling water and cook, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly.

Step 2. In a small saucepan cream together butter and brown sugar, then add molasses, cinnamon, salt and nutmeg. Cook over low heat, stirring, just until blended. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla extract.

Step 3. Beat eggs into cornmeal mixture one at a time. Add molasses mixture and mix thoroughly.

Step 4. Pour mixture into buttered 2-quart baking dish. Bake in a preheated 325 degree oven 1-1/2 hours or until firm and lightly browned. Serve with cream, whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.